Our plan was always to visit the Daintree River after Julatten, do the
morning river cruise with Chris Dahlberg and then start heading back down the coast. We
had heard at this point that our chances of seeing the Great Billed Heron were not very
good with Chris at the moment, and that we would have a much better chance on the Mossman
river with the Mangrove Man. Well, even though the Heron was obviously one of the Big Bird
targets we decide to stick to the Daintree. We had done the river cruise many years
previously when we had been performing on a cruise ship that called into Cairns. We hired
a car on the port day, shot up to the river and had done a midday cruise. Unfortunately it
had been flooding the previous few days and the river was a mess. No crocs to be seen and
we didn't really know much about the birds at the time.
This time there were no crocs either, but we had great views of the Little Kingfisher (a
Big Bird in my book) and absolutely stunning observation of several Shining Flycatchers
pairs. What a stunner. Both of them. Did I mention it rained? Taking a night off from
camping we stayed at Red Mill House B&B, very smart and well worth the $$ with it's
hearty breakfast, great library/lounge & charming new hosts.. Boyd's Forest Dragon,
Azure Kingfisher, Big orange footed birds and plenty of mozzies made their small garden an
exciting place to explore.
It's time to start heading south again. We need to have another look for the Cassowaries
and explore the southern end of the Atherton Tablelands. Just south of Daintree, Lynda
just happens to glance left as we pass a clump of trees and there is our one and only
Black Necked Stork. Jabiru. My god what a bird! We linger as long as we can on the busy
road, before heading back up to the Tablelands. We camp out at Lake Tinaroo, which would
have been nice but it started to rain. On and off and then really set in. So a few quick
calls while stocking up at the awesome IGA supermarket in Atherton and we arrange to stay
at Chambers Rainforest Lodge at Lake Eacham. Still very wet, but from there we are able to
immerse ourselves completely in the rainforest environment and explore some of the
surrounding area.
Hasties Swamp, has a great new two level bird hide. Stunning views of thousands of Plumed
Whistling Ducks and hundreds of Magpie Geese. The locals of course said "you should
have been here yesterday" but it was a thrilling sight and site.
Broomfield Swamp looked very quiet and bleak from the windswept viewing platform when we
arrived in the late afternoon. The view down into the old crater is spectacular with
promise, so we reposition the truck so we can keep warm and keep an eye on proceedings.
Attempts to set up the spotting scope inside the front compartment fail, so we raid the
fridge instead and wait. The sound of incoming Brolgas is unmistakable.
We leap out and scope the first wave of what would be hundreds of Brolgas as they came in
with their extraordinary landing procedure. Eventually we start to pick out the Sarus
Cranes that seemed to be mixed in randomly and another Big Bird joins the list. It was a
great birding moment. Add to this the flocks of Top Knot pigeons that arrived, seemingly
ready to roost up on the crater edge. We plan to return the next evening to see it all
again, if it wasn't raining. It was.
Eventually we leave the Tablelands with a quick visit to The Crater on the drive out.
There is some debate about heading inland again to chase the sun but decide that
another visit to Mission beach is more important. Lacey creek again turns up no
Cassowaries, the number one target Big Bird on our list. Again plenty of signs and we do
the loop track twice. It doesn't look promising, with quite a few people wandering the
track and the time getting later. We decide to move on to Licuala have a cup of tea and
then head south again.
Pulling into the long narrow track into the picnic spot I scan ahead for other cars as
it's essentially a one way track. There seems to be one person and what looks like a dog
coming towards us. Hmmm, I'll have a word to him about that as we pass. As we get closer
it is actually a man pushing a bicycle being followed by a Cassowary. It moves off the
road as we near it, giving great views before vanishing. Blurry photo.
Just as we are getting over that another larger bird crosses the road in front of us. Be
still my beating heart! We don't bother doing the walk after that, but sit happily in the
caged picnic area, drinking a brew up and feeling rather smug.
Perhaps we should run back up the coast and book on with the Mangrove Man? Get our last
target on the list? The GBH. But then we wouldn't have a reason to come back.
The last week and a half is spent toddling down the coast. Revisiting a few sites,
discovering some new ones. (We purposely avoided Cairns despite it's tempting birdspots.)
Our return to Murray Falls produces little but driving into Jourama the next day we find a
hotspot of Crimson Finch and Lovely Fairy Wren. No sign of them the next day and they were
the only ones we saw.
Cape Hillsborough NP is spectacular. We try to get one of the 10 spots at the Smalley's
Beach area, rather than the somewhat crowded main area, with no luck. Mind you for $12 a
night camping practically on the most impressive beach it is a delight anyway.
A Bush Curlew wanders around our camp that night. An interesting Mangrove
Board Walk. We've avoided shore birds up to this point, an Achilles heel with us, but
after we have notched up some that we were familiar with, progressed to a few that were
new for us.
As time is running now in our favour we head back into the rainforest and put a few days
in at Lamington. Lynda is related to Dick Church who lives right next to O'Rielly'$ so we
thought we would visit them, do the Border Track up to the Antarctic Beech forest and stay
at the Guesthouse. Wow, things have certainly changed up there since the last time we
visited. You can't move for pools, spas and Mercedes. Our $200 broom cupboard lost it
appeal after a few hours, so we relocated the next day to some self contained Chalets half
way down the mountain, at a third of the price, for the next few nights. Luckily for us
poor people, the birds are still unchanged, though some would disagree. Just 15 minutes up
the Border track and you've left the crowds behind. We had great and extended views of
Alberts Lyrebirds at several points, Logrunners, Regent Bower Birds and Rifle Birds. The
top of the hill with the extraordinary views and trees was well worth the climb. We sat
and joked about Dooley doing it 4 days in a row. Later, fleeting glimpses of small darkish
bird scuttling through the leaf litter lead to some thought of Rufous Scrub Bird, but it's
a sighting we'll have to confirm on another visit.
Brooms Head nestled in the Yuraygir NP is also a chance find. The Park offers a range of
spots to camp, but we settle for the Caravan Park. It was like stepping back into the
1950's. A brilliant spot right on the rocky shore, dolphin filled waves crashing in all
night, Oystercatchers, Ospreys, Brahminy Kites and Sea Eagles to watch endlessly. Bliss.
By now our trip list is looking very impressive. We don't expect to see any new lifers
from here on, but there are some obvious things missing. Nice to add Regent Honeyeater,
Plum Headed & Diamond FireTails and who can believe we haven't seen a Grey Teal by
now. So we decide to turn right at Maitland and head back via the Capertee Valley. (Well
actually this had always been the plan if we had the time. Also to drop off the camping
gear and pick up the chickens who were staying with friends.) No luck on the Regents, but
a long walk over our property confirms the Iron Bark is budding up well and should be a
massive flowering when it eventually kicks. Lynda finds the finches, and Black Chinned,
Fuscous and White Napped Honey Eaters.
So 5 weeks after leaving home we are heading back home to the Blue Mountains. But not
before a stop as we pass near Vicki Powys place at the southern end of the valley. We can
hear crunching in the Casuarinas but fail to find the Glossy Blacks that we know must be
just over the fence. We aren't in a rush, so then turn off the road at Portland to check
out Lake Wallace. Carol Proberts seems to be about the only other birder who regularly
visits this lake, just off the highway. We find the Grey Teal, Shovelers, Hoary Headed
& Great Crested Grebes and about 8 magnificent Pink Eared Ducks. There's always a
chance for Crakes and Rails there too. The wind comes up and we realise better get home
before dark and the post office closes.
Hmmm, but we haven't seen a Musk Duck and still hoping for Gang Gangs. This is getting
silly. We turn in at Wentworth Falls Lake. No luck. That’s it. No more birds. 286 for
the trip. I'm happy.
Pulling into Hazelbrook we debate calling in at Jill Dark's place. There's usually a
Lyrebird around digging up the garden. That would be a nice last bird.
We go to the post office instead and take possession of the large bags of mail.
Welcome back to the real world.
Bills, Brochures & the BAS.
I think I preferred the Brolgas, Bustards and Babblers.
Timothy Hyde / Lynda Holmes
Blue Mountains / Capertee Valley NSW
"did I mention it rained?"
Did you enjoy this Trip Report?
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